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Bagno Vignoni - La Foce - Monticchiello - Pienza

-- click on thumbnails for larger image --

Gently undulating slopes Poppies
Poppies and vines Poppies

Today promised to be a taxing one ... not only was there to be around 700 metres of climbing ... but far more seriously there were no obvious coffee stops on the way to Pienza.

The route was initially flat ... following the Fiume Orcia westward for some 12 kilometres. The surrounding fields were full of poppies and mustard flowers.

Mustard

The Val d'Orcia is the location in which Iris Origo wrote her war diaries between 1943 and 1944.

She took in and sheltered over 60 children who were either orphans or who were displaced from cities in the frontline.

During this period the region was fought over between the Allies and the Axis powers and was simultaneously subject to a civil war.

Iris Origo's description of these times is both humbling and inspiring.

Undulating slopes
The cheese making plant Sheep ... source of milk to make pecorino cheese

One of the local specialities is pecorino ... a soft white cheese made from sheep's milk.

Farmer gathering hay beneath the biancane

After the initial flat section the road turns to begin a 400 metre climb and the character of the land begins to change ...

Biancane littering the landscape
Winding road up to farmstead

... small pyramids of clay - called biancane appear. These are a few metres high and are composed of whitish clay.

Modern agricultural practices have severely reduced their number, but they remain on the steeper slopes.

Main gates to La Foce The garden gate to La Foce

Near the top of the hill I passed the ambulatorio constructed by Iris Origo and a little further on reached the estate of La Foce - which was her home throughout the war.

During this time La Foce provided support and shelter for dozens of locals, escaped prisoners as well as to the children to whom Iris was dedicated.

Roses on a house alongside La Foce Il Castelluccio

In these peaceful surroundings it is now hard to imagine the pressures and difficulties faced by those living here during the war.

The route continues to climb on a strada bianca above La Foce soon reaching Il Castelluccio.

This old castle was initially used to hold British prisoners-of-war and later as a garrison for German troops.

Leaving the safety of Montepulciano

Above Il Castelluccio the strada climbs on upwards to over 650 metres ... which I, mistakenly, thought was the last climb of the day.

At the top of the hill both Monticchiello and Pienza became visible in the distance.

Vines The zig-zag road that leads to Monticchiello The road descends ... before climbing again to Pienza
Pienza and Monticchiello in a sweeping panorama
On the right route How come we're lower than Pienza?

From the hill top the road descends gradually at first ...

before descending around sweeping zig-zag curves to the foot of Monticchiello.

road
Final few biancane before Pienza Little difficulty following this route

This of course meant another climb up to the entrance to Monticchiello.

Much to my surprise (I should have learnt by now) the final few kilometres to Pienza involved descending another hill and a further 150 metre climb.

The final section had a slope of around 20% ... so this presented an ideal opportunity to stop for photos.

Approaching Pienza for the final descent .. and final climb!
Looking back at a snaking strada bianca .. by this time I'd been round so many bends I couldn't tell whether I'd been on this one
A wedding party alongside the Palazzo Vescoville View southward through arch

The first sight that greeted my eyes in Pienza was a wedding party assembling in the shadow of the Palazzo Vescoville in Piazza Pio II.

The walls behind them still bear the scars of a mortar bombardment from during the war.

Palazzo Piccolomini Large flower pot

The second sight was a café ...

View south alongside il Duomo Il Duomo or Santa Maria Assunta Shoes
Palazzo Comunale from Piazza Pio II Palazzo Comunale from Corso Rossellino The southern ramparts provide excellent views over Val d'Orcia
Flowers .. .. more flowers .. .. and even more flowers
School party relaxing on the steps of the Palazzo Piccolomini View southward from one of Pienza's many alleys Darkness falling over Palazzo Comunale
Monte Amiata brooding over Val d'Orcia
 

Kirby James

 
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